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The trip I didn't tell you about
Published about 1 year ago • 6 min read
Hello, I'm back in Bir and spent the last 3 days hibernating after a very social 9 days in Bangalore. It's been raining here since I got back so the weather is lovely!
Remember I told you about my first travel assignment in Landour? I realized I never shared details of that experience with you. So, today is about that. Do let me know how you felt after reading it since it's my first time writing a long blog. Ok, dive right in!
It was already dark by the time I reached my homestay in Landour after a treacherous drive uphill. The weather was colder than I expected but a warm welcome by Sunita, my host, with the national drink of the mountains - a much-needed hot ginger lemon honey made it better.
After quick introductions, she told me that everybody was waiting for dinner since the only rule they have is that everybody eats dinner together - all guests & hosts. It was the first time I heard something like this and my introverted self instantly became conscious. I was not ready to interact with people yet. Especially after that drive, all I needed was to lie down in peace.
But as soon as I entered the dining hall, a delightful aroma entered my nostrils, teasing my senses and igniting a hunger I hadn't realized was there. Instantly, my mouth watered with anticipation and any thoughts of consciousness vanished.
Another unique thing about the homestay, La Villa Bethany, is that they serve a different cuisine every night and that night was Bengali food. With just one bite of aloo posto, I was transported eight years into the past when my roommate and dear friend from Kolkata introduced me to this dish.
Bengali food
While listening to everybody, I stuffed myself with the yummy aloo posto, baigun bhaja, chana dal, and rasgulla. There were 11 of us on the table so thankfully I didn’t have to contribute much to the discussion.
After dinner, Sunita, the owner of LVB, did a quick orientation where she told us a little about the history of Landour and LVB, how to use the blankets for maximum comfort and how not to burn ourselves in the shower since the solar heater is too strong.
It was my first time staying in an eco-friendly homestay. When you think of an eco-friendly homestay, do you also think expensive, uncomfortable, and inconvenient? I guess we all do. I had many questions but no energy to engage in a conversation so I saved them for later.
Upon entering my room, I was pleasantly surprised by its blend of old-world heritage charm and modern comfort. While I hadn't anticipated it, the room was equipped with bed heaters which proved to be a lifesaver as the temperature dropped to zero degrees the following day. Moreover, there was a room heater and a bukhari (fireplace), available on request, ensuring warmth throughout the chilly nights.
Tastefully designed rooms
I woke up after a restful night's sleep and eagerly stepped out onto the balcony. What met my eyes left me speechless —a breathtaking panoramic view of Dehradun & Mussoorie from an elevation of 7000ft.
It had been over 2 years since I last set foot in the mountains, and anyone who shares my affinity for them will understand the sheer joy of returning. I settled into the tranquility, immersing myself in the sight before me and inhaling the crisp mountain air.
After a quick breakfast, Sunita suggested we visit the Jabarkhet Nature Reserve, as the forecast predicted rain and snow for the next two days, leaving this day as our only chance for clear weather.
Known as the only private nature reserve in India, Jabarkhet offers panoramic views of the entire Himalayan range from its summit. A short 20-minute drive followed by an easy 30-minute hike brought us to the top. The forest was dominated by Deodar (cedar) and pine trees with the vibrant red blooms of rhododendrons (buransh) adding a splash of colour to the lush greenery.
At Jabarkhet's summit
Did you know pines don’t let anything else grow in their immediate neighbourhood? I didn’t know trees are territorial too. Upon reaching the summit, the weather took a turn. It started drizzling obscuring our view of the Himalayas.
Throughout my 4-day stay, the weather proved unpredictable, switching from sunny to rainy in a matter of moments. Renowned author Ruskin Bond, a resident of Landour, aptly puts it, "If you don’t like the weather of Landour, wait for 15 minutes." It started raining heavily by the time I returned to LVB, so I spent the rest of the day cozily sipping hot tea on my balcony, soaking in the breathtaking views.
Sipping on tea while enjoying the views
Then came dinner time and I was too excited to find out the cuisine of the day. It was delicious Gadhwali food prompting me to overeat again. I met new guests over dinner and what lively conversations we had! I started loving the rule of eating together despite being an introvert.
Dinner scenes
Landour is a 4 km ∞ shaped walk with tall deodar trees on one side and cute cafes on the other to recharge. So, my plan for the next day was just that: Walk. Eat. Repeat.
My first stop was Prakash store that sells world-famous peanut butter, homemade jams and cheeses. I’m not a fan of jams so I bought a bottle of peanut butter and some cheese. It’s the best peanut butter I’ve tasted in my life!
Continuing my stroll, I passed by Landour Bakehouse, reputedly one of the most popular cafes in the area. However, I'd heard mixed reviews about it so instead of waiting in the queue, I decided to keep moving.
For lunch, I chose Cafe Ivy, a cool spot nestled within the Deodar Woods property managed by Sunita. But I was more curious to get my questions answered about La Villa Bethany, so I went back to spend time with Sunita, and hear their story.
Both Sunita and her husband Amarjeet have been hoteliers working with renowned brands like ITC & Oberoi for years. When their daughter was growing up, they wanted to spend more time with her so they quit their jobs, moved to Landour, renovated a 150-year-old house and started Uttarakhand’s first homestay, La Villa Bethany in 2011.
Their dedication to sustainability shines through every aspect of their venture. Alongside the beautiful design, they use solar energy for heating, toiletries are sourced from local businesses, and products made by local women (woolen socks and caps) are proudly showcased. They only employ local youth as staff empowering them with opportunities to earn in their homeland without having to move to cities. The property boasts an impressive rainwater harvesting system storing 1.4 lakh litres of rainwater. This self-sustainable approach sets them apart, fulfilling their water needs for the entire year.
After dinner, we played a game of Catan, my favourite board game. Sunita used to be the undefeated Catan champion until that night :D
With Sunita and her daughter Srushti
Over breakfast the next day, Sunita shared about the time MS Dhoni & family came and stayed with them. I’m a huge Dhoni fan but I’d never met anyone who had met Dhoni in real life. She couldn’t stop praising his humility and simplicity. He exceeded my already high expectations. What a man!
After breakfast, I went for a stroll and settled at a cafe to finish some work. Later, I walked to the famous Char Dukaan area for some momos and tea. However, I found myself puzzled by Char Dukaan's popularity. The food was mediocre, and I found the shop owners quite rude. For dinner, we indulged in delicious Rajasthani cuisine, accompanied by equally delightful conversations.
On my final morning before checking out, I went for one last walk to Lal Tibba, the highest point in Landour. On clear mornings, one can spot Gangotri, Yamunotri, Kedarnath, and even Nanda Devi mountain ranges from Lal Tibba.
View from Lal Tibba
On my way back, I heard rumours that Aamir Khan was staying at the nearby property. Intrigued, I decided to see for myself and managed to get a quick photo with him. Not a bad way to conclude my trip, I thought!
With Aamir Khan
Upon returning to LVB, I packed my bags, paid my regards to their lovely staff, gave tight hugs to Sunita & Amarjeet and left with a heart full of love and cherished memories.
With Sunita
It's incredible how I had not even heard of Landour until just two months before this trip. Now, I have a home away from home in this charming town. La Villa Bethany provided an unforgettable experience that I'll treasure forever.
A huge shoutout to The Shooting Star Academy for this incredible opportunity as part of their course. And a special thanks to Sunita for hosting me at La Villa Bethany and demonstrating how a homestay can be eco-friendly, luxurious, comfortable, and homely all at once.
If you're looking for a quick mountain getaway, I can't recommend La Villa Bethany enough. To get in touch with them, simply call or WhatsApp at +91 8439255993.
If you've reached till the end, do let me know how you felt after reading this.
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